Monday, 16 December 2013

The dreaded day train



Sunday 8 December

I was up early for the drive into Lao Cai to catch the 09.15 to HaNoi. The journey was shared with a couple of Portuguese guys who were working with the National Archives on a process to rid the exhibits of insects. They had enjoyed a few days off in SaPa but had both suffered from the Vietnamese cough that everyone seems to have.

Well, after the train journey I imagine I’ll have it too. We left 45 minutes late, seemed to stop everywhere and went at a crawl for the first seven hours. The train filled up quite quickly, with its more than fair share of projectile coughers. No wonder half the passengers were wearing masks!

By no stretch of the imagination was it a pleasant journey. The train was full, the seats cramped, when not going ultra-slow the carriage took up a terrible motion, day turned to night and we were still a long way from Hanoi. As for the lavatory; best not to go into detail. I’m glad I’ve done it though, just to see what it’s like and to have the opportunity to reconsider my transport to Ho Chi Minh. Fortunately I’ve already booked a flight to Hue. The whole point of a day train, to see the scenery was rendered pointless by the windows being so filthy as to make admiring the countryside impossible while the passengers on the sunny side of the carriage immediately drew the curtains. I found myself sat next to a right old battle-axe who spread herself across the armrest and made the journey extra uncomfortable; she spat from time to time and let rip with some ripe farts. Quite charming. I was glad to arrive and was in a combative mood for the rogue taxi-drivers at Hanoi station. A quote of 8.5 US rapidly was lowered to 4. Still too much I thought and walked it to my hotel.

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