Sapa and Cat Cat

Monday 2 December

I slept quite well on the train and woke when we should have arrived at Lao Cai (6.15). In fact we had a further three hours to go. The train had got well-delayed by track works along the way. When we eventually got to Lao Cai, there was a minibus transfer to the hotel. The driver had obviously done a shady deal with a couple of French ladies and muttered to myself and the other two official passengers that there was no need to talk about money before getting his cash off the ladies. The drive up to Sapa gives excellent views and was refreshing for being on less hectic and crowded roads than those to which I had become used. 

Having installed myself in the hotel, I decided to do the easy walk – to Cat Cat and Sin Chai. Going out into the street you come across the sellers who you’ve read about. ‘Buy from me’ and ‘where you from’ seem the stock phrases. However, I don’t go with the moaners of Trip Advisor who would make one think the selling is oppressive. All you need to do is say ‘no thanks’ and move on. The same goes for once you are in the ethnic territories. On the way down to CatCat you buy an entrance ticket and yes, many of the buildings on the way are now open-fronted shops but the only pity it seemed to me was that this takes away from the authenticity of what one is seeing. However, you only need to get slightly off the tourist path and you are seeing people living their life, not playing a part for tourists. 

Entering the Cat Cat area one goes down what seems an interminable number of steps with the increasing thought that this all has to be done in reverse later. At the bottom there is a quite attractive waterfall.

From Cat Cat I carried on to Sin Chai which is far less developed, even a bit indifferent to tourists. Then I headed back to SaPa. The uphill was not so bad and I got back just as the light was fading.

In the evening I went out to find somewhere to eat but was disappointed that pretty well all the restaurants seemed to have extensive menus of fusion, offering anything from pho ga to spag bol. It’s hard to imagine any of it is any good. This was true of the recommendations on Trip Advisor and especially Lonely Planet. I must say I‘m beginning to have my doubts on the average contributor to those sites. They seem to be people who want the ultra safe option and take the adventure out of their venture. That said, I didn’t really feel like going to the other end of the scale and trying an entirely unrecommended local restaurant. Not so much because I’m worried they’ll kill me as a concern that the experience might be disappointing. In the end I did find somewhere pleasant enough – The  Little Sapa. The food was fresh and the staff helpful.